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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.